To the best of my knowledge, none of the participants of the 1975 expedition ever returned to Stordalens Havn: which in a way may make sense. It is very difficult to repeat, or attempt to recapture, a unique summer, a unique experience and moment in time.

However, it is interesting to learn of others who have visited in the intervening years. The valleys were in any case accessible to inuit hunting parties, a relatively short kayak's journey from Augpilagtoq - and we met a couple of such parties in 1975. Going back further in time, 600 years further back, the valleys were of course open to Viking settlement, and there are the remains of a Viking habitation at Stordalens Havn. It also seems likely that Bill Tilman harboured here in 'Sea Breeze' in 1970 before we ever visited.

One thing to mention about harbouring at Stordalens: the harbour is shallow and there is a significant risk of getting grounded at low tide. That happened to our boat, which had to wait until high tide to right itself.

Since 1975, there seem to have been many years... perhaps two decades... when no mountaineers ever visited. The rock climbing communities seem to have been drawn to Tasermiut, and it was not until 1996 that mountaineers returned again, to the mountains south of Stordalens - approaching from Narssap Sarqa.

As far as I've been able to find out, when the Torssukatak cliffs and neighbouring Pamiagdluk climbs started to attract attention and visits, Stordalens was not used as a base. Parties tended to base themselves 2 km across the fjord on Pamiagdluk, or as I've mentioned up Narssap Sarqa, or in the valley south of Whaletop, or from Narsarmijit (Frederiksdal), or simply direct by boat.

There's a hint that Cecilia Buil and Roberta Nunes may have used Stordalens in 2003, along with Pamiagdluk, when they made their new route 'Hidrofilia' up the Thumbnail cliffs in Torssukatak fjord.

In 2006 the photographer Dirk Jenrich visited Stordalens Havn. In 2009 the Belgian Joery Truyen carried out an epic trek from Tasermiut and Taserssuaq lake, overland to Kangerdluk, then across to Stordalens Havn via the Ivssortussut valley, and then by the Itivdlerssuaq valley to Tasiussaq, and back to Tasersuaq. He has a great account, with loads of pictures on his website here (and see some of his photos below on this page).

A year later Bob Shepton harboured there with 'Dodo's Delight' with the Favresse brothers, Sean Villanueva, and Ben Ditto in 2010, but only for a night before heading south to climb the Shepton Spire and Breakfast Spire, and one more night afterwards.

Willem van Doorne passed through Stordalens in July 2013, on a trek across from Tasermiut, coming down close by High Rising, with astonishment at the views down Torssukatak fjord, before travelling from Stordalens up the 'big valley' of Itivdlerssuak to Tasiussaq. You can view some of his pictures lower down on this page if you scroll down - my thanks for permission to use them.

In addition, in July 2013 seven Norwegian kayakers paddled from Herjolfnaes, via Torssukatak fjord to Stordalens Havn (where they camped, caught fish, and lit a driftwood fire) as part of a longer journey.

Also in 2013, Tilmann Graner passed through Stordalens Havn with his wife Suzanne, on an epic trek from Herjolfnaes to Tasiussaq, then through the Itivdlerssuaq valley to Stordalens Havn (where they found 5 Icelandic ponies grazing!). They then crossed over to Kangerdluk, then again across to Quingeq Kujatdleq, up Quinguadalen to Kangikitsoq, and finally back to Tasermiut and Tiningnertoq. Tilmann has kindly let me reproduce photos from this journey (see below) but visit his site for more pictures.

The following year, Frank Coen, Ruth Goris, Steven Lauwereins and Katleen Van Roy carried out a long hike between 11th and 27th August 2014 (see photos below, by kind permission), making similar crossings from Tasermiut and Quingadalen to the fjords of Kangerdluk and Kangikitsoq, and then hiked from Tasermiut to Tasiussaq lake, and through the Itivdlersuuaq valley to Stordalens Havn. There they met a German hiker who gave them a weather forecast for the next days, and although they were tempted to walk to the lookout point down Torssukatak fjord that Joery and Willem had photographed (see pictures below), they decided instead to return via Itivdlerssuaq in order to climb one of the western tops (1300m) of the Putorugtoq massif before the weather broke. They ascended it in very warm weather (their chocolate melted!) and that night the northern lights were in the sky.

Other than that, the only definite and recorded base there was when Siebe Vanhee and Tim de Dobbeleer set up a basecamp there for a week in 2014, visiting the Thumbnail cliffs, and making a first ascent of Dreadlock Peak (see pictures below).

There are some superb photos of the Stordalens and Tasermiut areas, taken in August 2017, by the Swiss photographer Urs Zihlmann. Some are posted below, with Urs' permission and you can see more of them here: https://urszihlmann.com/story/greenland

Viktor Posnov visited Stordalens Havn in both 2018 and 2019, and some of his photos (links here and here) are posted lower down this page, including some screenshots from great drone footage, which is posted on YouTube and offers some really good angles. Views of the Stordalens area can be seen in this YouTube video at 0:01 to 0:23 and 1:04 to 1:12. More extended footage and shots of the Stordalens area (and also Pamiagdluk) can be seen in another YouTube video at 2:41 to 2:52, and at 5:09 to 5:40, and at 36:21 to 37:08, and at 37:28 to 37:44.

Although most of the obvious 'first ascent' peaks were climbed in 1975 (and have not been reclimbed since except for 'The Ogre' aka 'Magic Mirror' in 1996 and 1997, and Agdlerussakasit in 1997), there are still many new rock routes available in the area (and of course, south around Whaletop / Pt 1303m from the fabulous valley there).

In addition, by kayak from Stordalens, Pamiagdluk Island is there and waiting, with so many climbs to be done. The first ascents of many of the mountains in this area have been accomplished, but there are still vast possibilities for new rock routes, and a wide variety of new Alpine routes and ridges.

PHOTOS BY DIRK JENRICH

I know that the photographer Dirk Jenrich passed through Stordalens in 2006, but I have not been able to make contact, so click on the following links to see some of his photos:

Stordalens Havn and another view here

View to the north of Stordalens Havn

Stordalens Havn at low tide, looking west, with the Itivdlerssuak valley heading up on the right

Looking westwards up the Itivdlerssuak valley - the 1975 basecamp was sited just across the river in the foreground, a little way up from the seashore

The Itivdlerssuak river (which could be 'interesting' to cross in spate) where it enters the sea at Stordalens

Amitsuarssuk, with Tikaguta in the distance, rising above Narsap Sarqa: Pete Hunt and I visited on our 'Viking Feich Trip' at the end of the expedition - it was plagued by black fly! Another view here. And this view shows the basecamp site of the 1996, 1997 and 2008 expeditions to Narssap Sarqa, just below Tikaguta.

View down Itivdlerssuak valley towards Stordalens Havn - and another view here

Mountains south of Stordalens Havn valley

Mountains south of Stordalens Havn, a couple of km up the Itivdlerssuak valley

The Torssukatak sea cliffs, just round the corner from Stordalens Havn

Dirk has a good collection of mountain photos from several locations in Greenland, including Tasermiut.

PHOTOS BY WILLEM van DOORNE

Willem spent 25 days hiking and pack-rafting in South Greenland in July 2013. His written account of an amazing long-distance journey on land and on sea begins here, but the section that brings him to Stordalens can be found here. He also shot a couple of videos. On the first video, you can see him walking up the Itivdlerssuak valley just above Stordalens Havn (at 2:35 to 2:38), paddling in view of the Torssukatak sea-cliffs (at 3:08 to 3:15), and viewed from a mountain to the north of Itivdlerssuaq near Tasiussaq, you can see the view westwards down Itivdlerssuaq towards Stordalens Havn (at 2:43 to 2:47 and 3:28 to 3:30), and the chain of mountains to the south of the valley, the highest one being Agdlerussakasit.

In a second video there's a superb glimpse of the Torssukatak cliffs as he came over the hills to Stordalens (at 3:20 to 3:29) and more views of the same (at 3:45 to 4:09).

In addition, click to view some great stills of the area, some of which with his kind permission I have posted below on this page if you scroll down:

Phenomenal views of the Torssukatak sea cliffs from the summit of peak 680m (day 18)

At peak 680m, Willem bivouaced, with another great view of the Torssukatak sea-cliffs, and high peak Agdlerussakasit, with the Itivdersusak valley to the right (Stordalens Havn where the river enters the sea).

Another view up the Itivdlerssuak valley, from peak 680m, just before sunset.

Alpenglow on the summits along Torssukatak early the next morning (day 19).

The Torssukatak sea-cliffs seen while paddling to Stordalens Havn.

Stordalens Havn, as Willem set off up the Itivdlerssuak valley. 1975 basecamp a little way off to the right of the picture, on the south side of the river.

Bivouac in Itivdluarssuaq valley near a small pond on the south side of the Agdlerussakasit range (1763m) (day 19).

Hiking through the Itivdlerssuaq valley (day 20).

View up towards Lost Loch Camp and Matterhorn C, looking north from the Itivdlerssuaq valley.

View back down the valley eastwards towards Stordalens Havn.

Bivouac on the southern slopes of 1430m, with a massive view back eastwards through Itivdlerssuaq (day 20).

On the summit of peak 1430m, with a great view back eastwards along Itivdlerssuaq valley (day 20).

PHOTOS BY SIEBE VANHEE

Siebe Vanhee's climbing trip with Tim de Dobbeleer is reported upon in the Torssukatak section of this website. You can find the details here. He also has a detailed account on his own site which starts here, with some good climbing in the Tasermiut area here, and the section about Stordalens here.

Some of the photos from that trip are posted below, with Siebe's permission.

PHOTOS BY URS ZIHLMANN

In August 2017, Urs Zihlmann visited South Greenland, taking some wonderful photos around Stordalens Havn and Tasermiut, areas visited by the 1960, 1971 and 1975 St Andrews expeditions. Urs is a professional photographer and you can see his full account with many more photos here, as well as visiting his whole website here.

PHOTOS BY JOERY TRUYEN

In 2009, Joery Truyen from Belgium made a great trek, bivouacing under flysheet, from Tasermiut and Taserssuaq lake, across the mountains to Kangerdluk, then round the coast to Ivssortussat, and up the Ivssortussat valley, over and across the mountains to Stordalens Havn. From there he trekked up the Itivdlerssuaq valley to Tasiussaq, and then via Putorugtoq to the thick willow-scrubbed shoreline of Taserssuaq again.

You can read about Joery's journey on his website here (for Tasermiut and Quinguadalen) and here (for the trek over to Ilua and Stordalens Havn). There are loads of fabulous photos and the website is well worth visiting if you are interested in these areas. Joery was fortunate with the weather, travelled light, and achieved a great route involving physical endurance.

From Tasermiut he got great views of Ulamertorsuaq and Ketil from the summit of Suikkassuaq. More great views here of Ulamertorsuaq (from north-west ridge), and with Nulamertorsuaq here; and of Ketil from near the summit of Pyramiden, and its amazing north-west face. Joery also got a great shot of a Greenlandic white-tailed eagle. He explored many valleys including the Tiningnertoq valley and the beautiful Quinguadalen. Here is a moody and atmospheric view from quite far up Quinguadalen, looking back south-west to the Putorugtoq hills on a dark evening. Overgrowth and about the nearest thing Greenland gets to trees can be tiresome in lower Quinguadalen and along the shores of Taserssuaq. Joery came across viking ruins in Quinguadalen, abandoned probably 600 years ago.

Halfway through his trip, he decided to head over to Kangerdluk, and from there to trek high overland via the Ivssortussut valley to Stordalens Havn and a round trip back to Tasermiut. He travelled relatively light with a flysheet bivouac, and was lucky with the weather. He did a detour to try to get overland to Augpilagtoq, but was confronted with challenging sea cliffs, and had a wild bivouac above some tricky sloping ledges. Returning to Stordalens Havn (some photos of this section, below) he trekked overland, through the 1975 expedition country, to the small settlement at Tasiussaq. From the hill above Tasiussaq, he got views back along Taserssuaq lake and the mountains beyond; and from Qaqatsiaq (500m) a great view of Tasermiut and Taserssuaq.

A phone call to Niels in Nanortalik and he learnt there was a boat coming to Tasermiut, and soon he was on his way and leaving the 'Cape Farewell' country behind.

PHOTOS BY WILLEM van DOORNE

Below are some great pictures from Willem's journey through 'Cape Farewell country'. You can visit his own web account here.

PHOTOS BY TILMANN GRANER

Here is a link to some pictures from Tilmann Graner's journey through 'Cape Farewell country' in 2013 with his wife Suzanne: pictures here. They travelled from Herjolfsnaes in the south, up to Tasiussaq, then along the Itivdlerssuaq valley over to Stordalens Havn. From there they hiked over the mountains in the valley north of Stordalens, and via various routes to Kangerdluk, Quinquadalen, Kangikitsoq, Tiningnertoq valley, and Tasermiut. If you click on Tilmann's larger pictures below, they take you to even larger high resolution pictures. All photos are copyright Tilmann Graner, and I am grateful for permission to reproduce them.

PHOTOS BY RUTH GORIS

Frank Coen, Ruth Goris, Steven Lauwereins and Katleen Van Roy carried out a long hike between 11th and 27th August 2014, making crossings from Tasermiut and Quingadalen to the fjords of Kangerdluk and Kangikitsoq, and then hiked from Tasermiut to Tasiussaq lake, and through the Itivdlersuuaq valley to Stordalens Havn. They returned via Itivdlerssuaq and climbed one of the western tops (1300m) of the Putorugtoq massif.

PHOTOS BY VIKTOR POSNOV

In 2018 and 2019 Viktor Posnov visited South Greenland and took some great pictures of the Stordalens area and the Itivdlerssuaq valley, also visiting the Tasermiut and Quingadalen area where the 1971 St Andrews University Greenland Expedition had climbed. There is some entertaining footage of Viktor in the thick and fly-ridden undergrowth of Quingadalen here at 35:54 to 39:36. The first pictures below are imperfect quality because I have taken screenshots of relevant places filmed by Viktor's drone and recorded on the YouTube videos. But they offer some great angles and views. Finally, for anyone who wants a feel for the awesomeness of the Greenland mountains, I urge you to watch from 8:46 to 11:00 in this very evocative drone footage.